Imagine walking among towering, perfectly hexagonal columns of basalt that rise like nature’s skyscrapers, sculpted over 100,000 years ago by volcanic lava and glaciers. Now imagine that this geological wonder nearly vanished, blown apart by mining and dam projects before anyone could save it.
Devils Postpile National Monument is more than just a stunning natural formation—it’s a story of human choices, courage, and the fight to preserve our planet’s treasures. “Standing at Devils Postpile National Monument, you don’t just see stunning hexagonal columns of basalt—you feel the story etched into every rock”, Richard Uzelac adds.
The Geological Wonder of Devils Postpile
Nestled in the Sierra Nevada, Devils Postpile is a geological marvel. Around 100,000 years ago, molten basalt from a volcanic eruption cooled to form a uniform slab. As the lava shrank, it cracked into perfect hexagonal columns, some towering as high as 60 feet. Later, glaciers carved through the rock, exposing these vertical pillars in all their glory. What you see today is nature’s precision at its finest—a formation so striking it feels almost otherworldly.
Protected Paradise: Devils Postpile Within Yosemite
When Yosemite National Park was expanded in 1890, the basalt columns fell within its boundaries. Their remote location kept them hidden from the majority of visitors, and for a while, they were shielded from logging and mining threats. This isolation allowed the columns to remain untouched and pristine, a quiet testament to nature’s artistry.
Gold Fever and Lost Protection
Everything changed in 1905 when gold was discovered near Mammoth Lakes. Mining companies quickly pushed Congress to shrink Yosemite’s borders, transferring Devils Postpile to Forest Service control. Without the strict protection of the National Park system, the formation became vulnerable. For the first time, its very existence was at risk—not from nature, but from human ambition.
Power Companies Plot Destruction
By 1910, plans were underway to build a dam on the Middle Fork of the San Joaquin River. The basalt columns weren’t just scenic—they were seen as a convenient source of construction material. Dynamite could have reduced these majestic towers to rubble. The potential destruction of a geological masterpiece loomed large, and only a few stood in its way.
Walter Huber’s Courageous Stand
Forest Service engineer Walter Huber reviewed the dam proposal and saw the danger clearly. He called it a “wanton destruction of scenery” and risked his career to push for national monument status. Huber urged his superiors to contact President Taft, setting in motion a chain of events that would decide the columns’ fate. One man’s courage was about to make history.
John Muir and the Sierra Club Rally
Environmental activism found a champion in John Muir, who rallied the Sierra Club and enlisted California’s leading scientists to the cause. Urgent appeals were sent to the White House, coinciding with the famous Hetch Hetchy fight. The movement wasn’t just about rocks—it was about preserving a natural legacy for generations to come.
The Antiquities Act: A Legal Lifeline
Fortunately, the Antiquities Act of 1906 gave the president authority to create national monuments protecting scientifically significant sites. This law bypassed Congress, where mining and timber companies wielded influence. With precedent already set by President Roosevelt’s creation of 18 monuments, the legal pathway to save Devils Postpile was clear—if only the president would act.
President Taft’s Political Dilemma
President Taft faced a delicate situation. Unlike Roosevelt, he wasn’t known for his love of nature, and the firing of Gifford Pinchot had already tarnished his environmental reputation. Conservation issues dominated public debate, making the decision to protect Devils Postpile both politically sensitive and historically significant.
Presidential Proclamation Saves the Columns
On July 6, 1911, Taft signed Proclamation 1166, creating Devils Postpile National Monument and preserving 798 acres of volcanic columns. The signing stopped dam construction and prevented the obliteration of a geological gem. Thanks to legal foresight, courageous individuals, and environmental activism, the columns remain a living testament to nature and human determination.
Modern Threats and Ongoing Protection
Even today, Devils Postpile faces challenges. Climate change, wildfires, invasive species, and visitor traffic all threaten its delicate ecosystem. The National Park Service, in partnership with the Inyo National Forest, implements fire management plans and visitor guidelines to ensure this ancient formation endures for future generations. Devils Postpile stands not just as a monument to volcanic activity, but as a symbol of the power of conservation.
Insights
Devils Postpile National Monument is more than a stunning collection of basalt columns—it’s a story of survival. From its creation 100,000 years ago to near destruction by human hands, this site embodies the tension between exploitation and preservation. It was thanks to people like Walter Huber, the activism of John Muir and the Sierra Club, and the foresight of President Taft that these columns are still here. When you visit Devils Postpile today, you aren’t just looking at cool rocks. It’s a reminder of what humans will do to protect what matters.
